Installing wall panels? Here’s what to keep in mind – Guide 2025

 

These days, installing wall panels is regarded as one of the quickest and most attractive ways to refresh an interior — whether you choose elegant MDF boards, contemporary composite systems, or natural panels made from decorative natural cork. However, even top-quality materials won’t live up to expectations if you skip the crucial preparation stage.

This guide is designed to outline the most important rules you should follow before fixing panels to the wall. It is the careful preparation of the surface that ultimately determines how the finished wall will look.

 

Table of Contents
1. Introduction
2. How to plan the panel layout?
3. A “diagnosis” of the wall: what is hidden underneath?
4. How to prepare the surface?
5. Panel acclimatisation: how long should they “rest” before installation?
6. Trial fitting
7. Summary
8. FAQ

 

Planning comes first — how to design the panel layout?

Before you start installing anything, ask yourself one fundamental question: how will the panel layout affect the proportions and overall feel of the room? A poorly thought-out arrangement can visually distort the space, whereas a well-designed one will bring out its best features.

1. Choose the direction of installation

Horizontal, vertical, or diagonal — each direction creates a different visual effect:

• Horizontal installation visually stretches the room and makes it feel more spacious — perfect for narrow corridors and low, elongated interiors.

• Vertical installation gives the impression of higher walls — an excellent option for rooms with low ceilings.

• Diagonal installation (for example at a 45° angle) is a bold, design-forward solution often used in modern interiors — it immediately catches the eye and adds a sense of movement.

2. Keep symmetry and proportions in mind

When planning the pattern, make sure that the joints between panels don’t intersect awkwardly with sockets, windows, lighting fixtures, or recesses. Otherwise, even high-end panels can look random and out of place.

It is worth preparing a scaled drawing of the wall with all panel divisions and any necessary cuts. For irregular walls or those with many features, a 3D visualisation can make planning much easier.

3. Allow for technical margins

At the design stage, identify areas where panels will need to be trimmed. Try to avoid ending up with a narrow strip — for example, just 2 cm wide — at the edge of the wall; this not only looks unbalanced but also makes installation more complicated.

Professionals recommend planning the layout so that the panels at both ends of the wall have a similar width.

4. Take the room’s function into account

In a bedroom, you can afford a more decorative, expressive layout, while in a kitchen or bathroom, practicality, ease of cleaning, and durability come first. The panel design should therefore reflect not only visual preferences but also how the room is used every day.

 

A “diagnosis” of the wall: what lies beneath?

Before you pick up a spirit level and mounting adhesive, you first need to understand what you’re working with — the actual condition of the wall. Even the most carefully designed layout and the most attractive panels won’t help if the substrate is poorly prepared or, even worse, hides structural problems.

1. Check load-bearing capacity and stability

The wall must meet two basic criteria:

• Stability — flaking plaster, cracks, or loose sections are clear red flags.

• Load-bearing strength — panels, especially heavier ones like MDF, need a surface that can support the additional weight without bending or pulling away.

Some walls (for example, plasterboard partitions) may need extra reinforcement or the use of additional anchors.

2. Identify the wall material

What exactly is the wall made of? Cement-lime plaster, gypsum skim coat, concrete, brick, or maybe a layer of latex paint? Each type of surface requires a slightly different treatment:

• Concrete and brick offer a solid base, but they may still need to be primed.

• Walls finished with latex or oil paint can repel adhesive — in such cases, the surface should be roughened or the paint layer removed.

• Gypsum finishes are highly absorbent — without priming, they draw moisture out of the adhesive and weaken the bond.

 

How to prepare and clean the surface?

What may seem like a minor detail — the wall’s texture — can ultimately decide whether the project succeeds or fails. Even the most premium wall panels won’t adhere properly if the substrate hasn’t been prepared correctly. And that involves far more than simply “dusting it off”.

1. Clean the surface — thoroughly, with no shortcuts

Begin by giving the wall a meticulous clean:

• Remove loose plaster, dust, and debris.

• Degrease the surface, especially if the wall has been painted with latex paint or is located in a kitchen — use a solution with grey soap or a dedicated degreasing cleaner.

• Remove any mould or mildew instead of hiding it behind panels — if left untreated, the issue will return and become more serious over time.

2. Level out uneven areas

Wall panels don’t tolerate imperfections — especially when installed with adhesive. Even small irregularities can cause:

• panels to protrude from the wall,

• misalignment of panel joints,

• uneven adhesive distribution, which reduces the installation’s durability.

To avoid these issues, you should:

• Fill any gaps, cracks, or structural inconsistencies.

• Smooth down raised areas or overly textured spots — even those that appear minor.

• Apply a thin finishing coat if needed.

3. Prime the surface — always, without exception

Priming is a non-negotiable step. A good primer:

• Strengthens the wall structure and reduces absorption,

• Improves adhesive bonding,

• Prevents the glue from drying too quickly, which could weaken the bond.

 

Panel acclimatisation: how long should they “rest” before installation?

One of the most frequently overlooked yet crucial steps before installing wall panels is letting them acclimatise, meaning giving them time to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the room. Although it may seem unnecessary, this process often determines whether your panels will stay perfectly flat for years or begin to warp, loosen, or crack shortly after installation.

1. Why does acclimatisation matter so much?

Panels of all types are sensitive to fluctuations in humidity and temperature. During transport and storage, they are often exposed to very different conditions than those in your home. Suddenly moving them into a warmer or more humid space without preparation can lead to:

• material expansion (swelling),

• contraction or warping,

• reduced adhesive performance during installation.

2. How long should the panels acclimatise?

The required acclimatisation time depends on the material:

• Decorative natural cork panels — minimum 72 hours in the installation room.

• MDF, veneered, or laminated panels — typically 48 hours is enough, but in very temperature-variable environments, it’s safer to extend this period.

• Plastic-based panels (e.g., PVC) — at least 24–48 hours, ensuring they are kept away from direct heat sources.

3. Under what conditions should panels acclimatise?

The room should already reflect its final working conditions, that is:

• a temperature maintained between 18–24°C,

• relative air humidity of around 40–60%,

• no draughts and no moisture marks on the walls.

 

Skipping the “test fit” — the most common mistake

Even if the wall has been properly prepared, the panels have acclimatised, and the layout is ready, it is still worth pausing for a moment to carry out a trial installation. This extra step takes very little time, yet it can save you from hours of frustration and avoid expensive rework.

1. Why is a test fit worth doing?

Installing a single panel as a test allows you to:

• Verify the actual adhesion of the chosen adhesive to the wall surface,

• Check bonding strength after a few hours — whether the panel holds firmly or shows signs of detaching,

• See whether the material reacts adversely with the substrate or adhesive (for example, discolouration or distortion),

• Confirm the accuracy of your layout, especially when you are using a laser level or mounting template.

2. How should the test be carried out?

• Choose a discreet area, for example a lower or less visible section of the wall.

• Fix a single panel in place using the installation method recommended by the manufacturer.

• Allow at least 6–12 hours to pass (or follow the curing time specified on the adhesive’s technical data sheet).

• Evaluate the outcome: is the adhesive evenly spread, is the panel flush with the wall, and does it resist removal?

 

Summary

In the end, it is not the act of installation itself that determines quality and durability, but everything that precedes it. A professional finish requires more than just good-looking panels — it calls for careful planning, precision, and respect for every stage of the process.

The journey starts with a well-thought-out design that takes into account aesthetics, room proportions, laying direction, and the function of the space. Then comes a detailed assessment of the wall — verifying its stability, load-bearing capacity, and surface type. Even a seemingly smooth wall can compromise the result if it is not properly cleaned, levelled, and primed. Equally important is giving the panels time to acclimatise so they can adapt to the room’s conditions. Skipping this stage may lead to warping, detachment, or visible colour changes.

Finally, before committing to full installation, carrying out a simple test fit is a smart safeguard. One trial panel can reveal potential issues early on and protect you from mistakes that would otherwise be costly and time-consuming to rectify.

 

FAQ

1. Do all panels need to be acclimatised?
Yes. Every material — whether it is natural cork, MDF, veneer, or plastic — responds to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Skipping acclimatisation increases the risk of panels deforming or separating from the wall.

2. Can I glue panels without priming the wall first?
From a technical standpoint it is possible, but in practice it is strongly discouraged. Priming enhances adhesion, evens out the substrate’s absorbency, and stops the adhesive from drying too fast. Omitting this step often leads to failures that later turn into warranty or repair issues.

3. Is it advisable to use additional fixings (e.g., dowels, battens)?
In most standard situations, a high-quality adhesive is entirely sufficient. Extra fixings are typically reserved for very heavy panels or installations on walls with limited load-bearing capacity (such as certain plasterboard systems). The choice should always be based on a careful assessment of the specific technical conditions on site.